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K-6 Ranger clone
#1
Photo 
Old school color scheme...

[Image: img_3883.jpg]
Rich Holmes
Camillus, NY
Secretary / newsletter editor
Syracuse Rocket Club

http://richsrockets.wordpress.com
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#2
Cool. Brings back memories long forgotten.
A true Ranger with multi-engines?
The Ranger was the first before the Big Bertha single engine (most everyone knows that though)
I have a Super Big Bertha I was thinking about doing with a 29mm MMT.
The Ranger Clone is on my list.
So many rockets...So little time.
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#3
Nice one - I like the whole Ranger - Bertha arc, though oddly I've never built one except for the newfangled Ranger which is kind of a de-fanged K-6 with only one motor.
Dave Cook 
NAR 21953 L2    TRA 1108
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#4
(07-15-2015, 10:26 AM)JEAdams Wrote: Cool. Brings back memories long forgotten.
A true Ranger with multi-engines?

Yes. I built this for the NARTREK Silver cluster requirement. Here's a test fit of the motor mount before painting:

[Image: img_3347.jpg]
Rich Holmes
Camillus, NY
Secretary / newsletter editor
Syracuse Rocket Club

http://richsrockets.wordpress.com
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#5
Rich, do you have any photo's of the way you did your engine mount with the all thread?
Looks like it will better than the old engine hook for all 3 engines!
And by all means, THANKS for sharing!!!
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#6
I did mine for my Estes Cobra the same way, using 1/8 inch diameter all thread, which nicely passes between a 3 tube cluster of 18 mm engine tubes.
The all thread was run all the way through with an epoxied nut on the forward end, and the washer and nut on the aft end as shown in Rich's picture.
I used a 1/8 inch fender washer that I ground down to the diameter I wanted, as the standard washers that fit the all thread seemed a little too small, and the fender washer itself too large
It does add a little weight, but nothing substantial, and beats having to tape the engines!
Greg
Greg Young - L3
TRA 00234
NAR 42065
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#7
I didn't use a nut at the forward end. In fact my threaded rod didn't extend all the way to the forward end of the motor mount. Just a couple inches, buried in the epoxy filling the gap between the tubes.

This was #4 threaded rod if I remember right. Actually a long #4 machine screw with the head cut off.
Rich Holmes
Camillus, NY
Secretary / newsletter editor
Syracuse Rocket Club

http://richsrockets.wordpress.com
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#8
Its not really an old school paint job as i can see it is shiny! old rattle cans never shined  Wink

Nice!


Bill Clune L3 | NAR#88583
Been a launch Director
Founded a Club
MARS Club|SRC|MDRA - Forever
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#9
Hey Rich,
Good looking Ranger! Old school is a great paint scheme for it.
If I make another one I'll use the bolt and washer for engine retention. Smart upgrade.

My Ranger started as a Baby Bertha -
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/...parts.html
Copy from the blog post:
The Baby Bertha body tube is 7 1/2" long. Cut that down to 7" and you would only have to add a 11" length of BT-60 for the lower tube.
That and some BT-20 for the three engine cluster tubes, a 60 sized balsa nose block (or blocked coupler) and you are good to go!

The Baby Bertha fins are real close, but not 1/8" thick. A whole lot cheaper than buying a kit or collecting clone parts.
Hans "Chris" Michielssen
Old/New NAR # 19086 SR
www.modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

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#10
The original Ranger fins were 3/32" balsa. Mine are 3/32" basswood (papered). I also wanted the original Ranger nose cone shape. So I cut my own fins and bought the nose cone from BMS. Basswood from Michael's with a coupon is very inexpensive as are most of the other parts, so $4.50 for the nose cone was the biggest expense.
Rich Holmes
Camillus, NY
Secretary / newsletter editor
Syracuse Rocket Club

http://richsrockets.wordpress.com
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