Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
AMW Red Max Build
#1
Here are the parts unboxed.  Fin skins included.

   

I am currently thinking of building it with a 75mm mount, since a 54mm J doesn't seem like enough.   And because my Estes Mega DRM was 98mm/minimum diameter... going for a little less overkill here.  I think I can make a 2 grain 75mm work.
Reply
#2
(01-14-2018, 06:25 PM)MarkH Wrote: Here are the parts unboxed.  Fin skins included.



I am currently thinking of building it with a 75mm mount, since a 54mm J doesn't seem like enough.   And because my Estes Mega DRM was 98mm/minimum diameter... going for a little less overkill here.  I think I can make a 2 grain 75mm wo
Hi Mark,
  Very interesting project. One of my first builds was a RW Rogue (also 4 inch & 54mm MM). I wish that I had used a 75 mm MM instead of the supplied 54 mm one. If you consider a chute release and HED deployment (rather than classic dual deploy), you should definitely have room for  a CTI 2 grain 75MM motor. Let me know how much "tonage" you need to add to the nose cone (after simming) for a stable flight.
Fred
Reply
#3
(01-15-2018, 12:35 AM)FMarvinS Wrote: Hi Mark,
  Very interesting project. One of my first builds was a RW Rogue (also 4 inch & 54mm MM). I wish that I had used a 75 mm MM instead of the supplied 54 mm one. If you consider a chute release and HED deployment (rather than classic dual deploy), you should definitely have room for  a CTI 2 grain 75MM motor. Let me know how much "tonage" you need to add to the nose cone (after simming) for a stable flight.
Fred

Fred,

Below is the general layout.  There looks to be about 5 inches of clearance between motor and nosecone bulkhead.  I will do a dry fit first to make sure I can fit the recovery gear, before gluing anything together.   Basically electronics in the nose, single break, with a JLCR.

   

I'm not sure about the HED term.  That seems to be a Wildman, or Crazy Jim creation, which removes the upper payload tube, uses a standard ebay, and puts the parachute in the nose, at least as far as Wildman kits go.
Reply
#4
(01-16-2018, 07:46 AM)MarkH Wrote:
(01-15-2018, 12:35 AM)FMarvinS Wrote: Hi Mark,
  Very interesting project. One of my first builds was a RW Rogue (also 4 inch & 54mm MM). I wish that I had used a 75 mm MM instead of the supplied 54 mm one. If you consider a chute release and HED deployment (rather than classic dual deploy), you should definitely have room for  a CTI 2 grain 75MM motor. Let me know how much "tonage" you need to add to the nose cone (after simming) for a stable flight.
Fred

Fred,

Below is the general layout.  There looks to be about 5 inches of clearance between motor and nosecone bulkhead.  I will do a dry fit first to make sure I can fit the recovery gear, before gluing anything together.   Basically electronics in the nose, single break, with a JLCR.



I'm not sure about the HED term.  That seems to be a Wildman, or Crazy Jim creation, which removes the upper payload tube, uses a standard ebay, and puts the parachute in the nose, at least as far as Wildman kits go.


Mark,
  

  I loosely use the HED term to relate to most nosecone main chute deployment-I'll be following your build.

Fred
Reply
#5
The Wildman Punisher from this build donated its left over 75 mm motor mount.  Thanks Wildman Punisher.
   
   
   

Recovery gear fits, but is a little tight. It should be ok.
   
   
Reply
#6
Very cool build! That should get up and scoot on a 75mm😎
Reply
#7
OHHH MY!!


Bill Clune L3 | NAR#88583
Been a launch Director
Founded a Club
MARS Club|SRC|MDRA - Forever
Reply
#8
Hit a little speedbump on this build.  I put on one of the fin skins on one side of a fin, and noticed after it cured that the fin had a slight curve to it.  Thought it might be from the curing process, but I checked the other two bare fins, and they are the same way.  It's about par for the course if it were a piece of balsa or lite ply, but I generally expect fiberglass to be straight.  I was hoping to make quick work of this build, and am tempted to just use them, but I'm not too keen on building a Red Max that twirls on the way up. The build is on hold at the moment, till I resolve the fin issue. 


Unlaminated fin:
   
   


Laminated one side:
   
   
Reply
#9
That is odd for fiberglass to warp like that.
Reply
#10
Mark this is caused by only doing 1 side at time. When you do the other side it should straighten out. When you do the other fins do both sides at a time and put a heavy flat object on them....

My sister was a painter she always started by painting the backside of the canvas so it wouldn't bend


Bill Clune L3 | NAR#88583
Been a launch Director
Founded a Club
MARS Club|SRC|MDRA - Forever
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)